First three pictures from summer of 2008 at Animal Acres in Acton, Calif. where Seb and I tented in a chicken pen for two weeks during a permaculture design course. The chickens liked to follow us around in the morning and rub up against our legs.This morning I finished reading Jonathan Safran Foer’s brilliant new novel:
Eating Animals. The book was both timely and fitting given it ends on a note about Thanksgiving.
Foer writes that: “Today’s turkeys are natural insectivores fed a grossly unnatural diet, which can include “meat, sawdust, leather tannery by-products,” and other things whose mention, while widely documented, would probably push your belief too far. Given their vulnerability to disease, turkeys are perhaps the worst fit of any animal for the factory model. So they are given more antibiotics than any other farmed animals. Which encourages antibiotic resistance. Which makes these indispensable drugs less effective for humans. In a perfectly direct way, the turkeys on our tables are making it harder to cure human illness.”
Foer asks what turkeys have to do with Thanksgiving and notes that half a century before Plymouth, early American settlers celebrated Thanksgiving with the Timucua Indians and dined on bean soup.
Even if we make believe that the Pilgrims invented Thanksgiving and were eating turkey, they wouldn’t recognize the Frankenbirds we’ve genetically developed today as anything they ever raised or dined on.

“At the center of
our Thanksgiving tables is an animal that never breathed fresh air or saw the sky until it was packed away for slaughter. At the end of
our forks is an animal that was incapable of reproducing sexually. In
our bellies is an animal with antibiotics in its belly.”
Scientific studies and government records suggest that virtually all (upwards of 95 percent of) chickens become infected with E. coli and between 39 and 75 percent of chickens in retail stores are still infected.
Because consumers “might notice that their chickens don’t taste quite right—how good could a drug-stuffed, disease-ridden, shit-contaminated animal possibly taste?” the birds are injected with “broths” and salty solutions to give them what we’ve come to think of as a chicken look, smell, and taste.
A recent study by
Consumer Reports found that chicken and turkey products, many labeled as “natural”, are “ballooned with 10 to 30 percent of their weight as broth, flavoring, or water.”

Contamination occurs further during the removal of birds’ heads, feet, and guts, as the high-speed machines commonly rip open intestines, releasing feces into the birds’ body cavities.
Even if the bird managed to make it through the processes relatively clean, they all end up in the same refrigerated tank of water, where thousands of birds are cooled. The tanks have been aptly named ‘fecal soup’ for all the filth and bacteria floating around.
“By immersing clean, healthy birds in the same tank with dirty ones, you’re practically assuring cross-contamination. While a significant number of European and Canadian poultry processors employ air-chilling systems, 99 percent of US poultry producers have stayed with water-immersion systems and fought lawsuits from both consumers and the beef industry to continue the outmoded use of water-chilling. It’s not hard to figure out why. Air-chilling reduces the weight of a bird’s carcass, but water-chilling causes a dead bird to soak up water (the same water known as “fecal soup”). One study has shown that simply placing the chicken carcasses in sealed plastic bags during the chilling stage would eliminate cross-contamination. But that would also eliminate the opportunity for the industry to turn wastewater into tens of millions of dollars’ worth of additional weight in poultry products.”
US poultry consumers now gift massive poultry producers millions of additional dollars every year as a result of this added liquid.

Birds are not included in the Humane Methods of Slaughter Act (nor pigs or fish, in fact, cows have the best protection in place, though it is rarely reinforced). They have been genetically engineered to grow so fast, they can no longer fly and can barely walk. Toenails, beaks, and wings are regularly clipped or seared off.
Frank Reese, the only USDA approved heritage poultry farmer in the US, writes a beautiful essay in
Eating Animals. It is clear he loves the turkeys he raises and is working on a mobile slaughterhouse so processing can be done the way he wants—not hung live and dragged through electrical baths. Reese says if people can’t pay for turkeys to be raised and killed right then they shouldn’t eat turkey at all. Towards the end of his essay he asks:
How much suffering will you tolerate for your food?“It’s wrong, and people know it’s wrong. They don’t have to be convinced. They just have to act differently. I’m not better than anyone, and I’m not trying to convince people to live by my standards of what’s right. I’m trying to convince them to live by their own.”